Venice for Christmas: Three Days In Venice without the Crowds

This past year our family decided to plan a Venice trip the week before Christmas. We planned the trip to Venice at Christmas time because we wanted a time when it would be a less crowded time of the year. While the travel “off season” doesn’t really exisit in Italy anymore, Venice in the winter is less crowded than other times.

By planning our trip around the holidays we would enjoy the festive atmosphere of Venice without the crowds. The mid December week worked out prefectly. And we always love to plan a trip to Italy for Christmas so double bonus there.

Visiting Venice in this dazzling time of year brought with it a special ambiance. In the winter mornings the Venetian lagoon had a mist wafting right above the water. From the water to the sky various shades of blue and green filled the air. The dusk to night brought with it all manner of shades of blues and pinks followed by the Christmas lights.

Day 1 – Venice Private Water Taxi to Hotel

We arrived Marco Polo airport and traveled by private water taxi to our hotel. I always love the private water taxi trip from the airport to Venice. Venice is a unique experience and this is such a unique way to arrive in Venice. Of course our 14 year old son loves the water taxi entrance… i mean c’mon, who wouldn’t?

The private water taxi cost is about 150 euro from the Venice Marco Polo Airport to any hotel located in Venice. We consider the trip like a private sightseeing tour of Venice’s Grand Canal.

We asked the driver to enter through the top of the Grand Canal. This way we could travel down the canal from near Piazzale Roma to our hotel located in St Mark’s Square. This was an exicting way to enter Venice. We love seeing all the palazzos. And the action of boat commerce.

As our private water taxi glided from the Venice airport into the Grand Canal, the city’s timeless pulse hit me like a wave.

The water shimmered under the morning sun, reflecting palazzos that seemed to float, their faded pastel facades whispering centuries of stories. Turning left, the canal widened, a liquid highway buzzing with life—vaporettos, gondolas, and service boats weaving through the chaos with Venetian precision.

A water ambulance zipped by, its siren slicing through the hum of commerce, while a plumber’s boat, laden with pipes, bobbed alongside a delivery skiff stacked with crates of artichokes and prosecco for the Rialto market. Construction boats, hauling timber and tiles, churned past, a reminder that Venice is a living city, not just a postcard.

We slipped beneath the Rialto Bridge, its stone arch framing vendors haggling over fish and flowers, the market’s vibrant sprawl spilling into view.

The Grand Canal decorated for Christmas is a lovely sight. From the St Regis Hotel and the Aman, to the Rialto Bridge, the holiday decorations and Christmas trees added to the allure of Venice’s charming atmosphere.  A Venice Christmas is certainly a beautiful affair.

As we approached St. Mark’s Square, the domes of The Basilica rose like a mirage, and I felt the canal’s rhythm, chaotic, elegant, and utterly alive, pull me into Venice’s embrace.

The Hotel

We decided to stay at a hotel located on Piazza San Marco (St Mark’s Square). The view from our balcony was right to St Mark’s Basilica with the clocktower in the background.

We wouldn’t stay in this location from Spring to Fall because of the crushing crowds. We knew the crowds would be light in Venice in December so we wouldn’t be ovewhelmed staying right in the center.

The location saved us a ton of time on our daily sightseeing rounds. And the views when we were in the room were spectacular.

Getting our Legs

When we travel we leave the first day afternoon to stroll around. We don’t plan anything other than to enjoy ourselves and as we say, “get our legs” after the transatlantic flight.

With the excitement of Christmas time we decided to take a nice walk toward the Rialto Bridge. All the streets were decorated with festive lights. Along the way we indulged in some window shopping.

Day 2

Hidden Venice

We woke up to take a walking tour of Venice’s hidden streets, squares, and corners. I found myself drawn to the understated charm of Campo Santo Stefano and Campo San Polo, two squares that pulse with the city’s authentic rhythm, far from the tourist crush. 

Campo Santo Stefano greeted us with its sprawling openness, a rare expanse in Venice’s labyrinth. The morning light bathed the Gothic facade of the church of Santo Stefano, its brick campanile leaning slightly, as if nodding to the local Venetians sipping espresso.

Children kicked a ball near the statue of Niccolò Tommaseo, their laughter echoing off pastel palazzos, while a vendor sold roasted chestnuts, the scent mingling with the damp air of nearby canals.

Wandering north, we reached Campo San Polo, quieter but no less alive. The church of San Polo stood sentinel, its unassuming exterior hiding Byzantine treasures within. The surrounding San Polo district is one of the most charming areas of Venice with artisan shops and lively markets. 

These campos, tucked away from the Grand Canal’s dazzle, revealed a Venice of lived-in beauty, where history and daily life intertwine in perfect, unhurried harmony.

The Gondola Ride

Afterwards, the day warmed up enough to take a Gondola ride. The Gondolier offered us blankets and we were off. We paid 65 euros for the three of us for 30 minutes. We decide to pay an extra 20 euros to go 45 minutes and include the Grand Canal.

Gliding through Venice’s narrow canals on a gondola at Christmas, the city felt like a dream dusted with winter magic. Even the Gondolas were decorated for Christmas.

The December air was crisp, my breath visible as the gondolier’s oar sliced through the inky water, reflecting twinkling lights strung across bridges and palazzos.

Blankets draped over our lap, we watched as the canal-side historic buildings glowed with festive warmth, their windows adorned with wreaths and candles.

The serenity of the ride made the Christmas season feel both intimate and eternal.

Murano

After lunch we planned an afternoon day tour to Murano and Burano.

We walked to the Fondamente Nove Vaporetto stop, a 15-minute walk from central San Marco (St Marks Sqaure). Form there you can take the Vaporetto Line 12 to Murano Colonna or Murano Faro. From this stop the vaporetto to Murano is only 15 minutes. 

Once in Murano we walked around the shops. The enormous glass Christmas tree is a unique sight. We stopped in at a quick glass blowing demonstration and skpped the sales presentation. We did buy a little glass octopus.

Burano

Afterward we continued the trip to Burano.  Burano’s colorful buildings were originally painted this way to help the fishermen find their way home. It is often foggy, as you can see in this photo. The colors help the mariners see the island.

Burano in the late winter afternoon was mysterious and quiet.  The streets were quiet.  We strolled around, did a little Christmas shopping. The shopping highlight was a lace runner for our dining table and buffet.

We eneded up taking a late Alilaguna back to St Mark’s Square, which takes about 35 minutes.

Day 3

Rialto Market: Looking for Christmas Food

This morning we began the day by walking to the Rialto Market. It was buzzing with festive energy. The local vendors selling glistening fish, ruby pomegranates, and panettone, while twinkling lights reflected on the canal. 

Afterward we walked over to the Christmas market in Santo San Stefano for a glass of mulled wine, vin brulé, which is a warm, spiced wine drink commonly enjoyed during the Christmas period.

St Marks’s Square: Doge’s Palace & Basilica San Marco

Afterward we made our way to St Mark’s Square. We visited both the Basilica and Doge’s Palace.  These are the must dos when checking out Venice. Buy tickets to both ahead of time to skip the lines.

We literally had the Doge’s Palace all to ourselves. Here is the inner courtyard with the view to St. Mark’s Basilica.

We walked through rooms to the jail corssing over the Bridge of Sighs. here too we had it to ourselves. Time to ponder what it must have been like during the Venetian Republic times to cross over to total loss of freedom.

The golden mosaics in the domes of St Mark’s Basilica are awe-inspring. It is really quite incredible. Fortunately it wasn’t too crowded. We had space and time to take in the beauty and ponder the story and symbolism.  It was an enjoyable visit without the typical crowds.  

Campanile di San Marco

We didn’t make reservations to go to the top of the bell tower. When we exitied St Marks Basilica there was no line for the elevator up so we jumped on. We had the entire top of the belltower to ourselves.

From up high we enjoyed the picturesque view over the lagoon city. The view is 360 degrees around.  It was incredible to have the entire belltower view to ourselves.  Another benefit spending Christmas in Venice.

Caffè Florian

From the bell tower we slipped right into Caffè Florian. Winter in Venice means hot chocolate. And again, no line.

We walked right inside and were seated at a nice table by the window.

The family enjoyed hot choclate, machiato, tea. and a nice ham and cheese Italian pannini. Just enough for some energy to continue sightseeing.

Of the course the bill was outrageous but that’s the price of admission to sit in the “Drawing room of Europe” Caffe Florian.  

Things to do in Venice at Christmas

Guggenheim Museum

The museum offers its permanent collection of 20th-century modern art, featuring works by Picasso, Pollock, Dalí, and others, alongside temporary exhibitions.

New Year’s Day Venetians and tourists alike stop by for complimentary Aperol Spritz.

Teatro La Fenice

Check La Fenice theater for Christmas concerts. The theater is beautiful and intimate, perfect setting to get into the holiday mood. it is definetly worth visiting even if there is not a concert you can check it out.

Christmas Eve Midnight Mass

There are various churches that hold a midnight Christmas Eve Mass in Venice. 

Basilica San Marco – St Mark’s Basilica

Perhaps the most popular Christmas Midnight Mass in Venice is at Saint Mark’s Basilica.  Be prepared to get in line around 9:30PM.  The line moves about 11PM. And the mass begins at midnight. Check the official website to confirm. St Mark’s Basilica also has a Christmas Day service.

St. Mark’s Basilica Liturgical Services

other notable Midnight services around Venice include the following:

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (San Polo)

This grand Franciscan church, known for its Venetian Gothic architecture and Titian masterpieces, often hosts a midnight Mass. Its spacious interior and historic significance make it a popular choice for locals. Check for updates via local posters or the Chorus Venezia website (veneziaunica.it).

Santi Giovanni e Paolo (San Zanipolo) (Castello)

As one of Venice’s largest churches, this Dominican basilica, often called the “Pantheon of Venice” for its Doge tombs, typically holds midnight Mass. Its majestic setting enhances the solemnity of the service. Contact the parish or check veneziaunica.it for details.

San Cassiano (San Polo)

A smaller, more intimate church near the Rialto, it’s known for its active congregation and may offer midnight Mass, providing a less crowded alternative to St. Mark’s. Verify times through local notices or the parish.

San Giacomo dall’Orio (Santa Croce)

This church, with a lively community often hosting events like summer bazaars, is likely to hold a midnight Mass. Its warm atmosphere appeals to locals and visitors seeking a less touristy experience. Check parish announcements for confirmation.

Santa Maria dei Miracoli (Cannaregio)

A jewel of Renaissance architecture, this church has been noted for Christmas Eve services, though past records suggest its “midnight” Mass may start earlier, around 8:30 p.m. Confirm with the parish or local signage.

Whereever you decide to celebrate Christmas Mass in Venice it is sure to be a memorable experience.

Christmas Shopping and Christmas Markets

The Venice Christmas markets that were located in Campo Santo Stefano, Campo San Polo and the Rialto Market were not happeneing when we were there this year. I understand they may return in the coming years so stay tuned.

Nevertheless, Venice is full of artisan shops. Strolling the steets we found some nice authentic Venetian gifts. Now there are also a lot of shops selling Chinese knockoffs which is disappointing.

We also dipped into a few spots to warm up with the holiday cheer Vin brûlé, which is a traditional Italian mulled wine, also known as spiced wine.

Christmas Concerts

Venice hosts numerous Christmas concerts during the holiday season, typically in December and early January. These include classical music performances, sacred music, and operas held in historic venues like Teatro La Fenice, St. Mark’s Basilica, and churches such as San Vidal and Santa Maria della Pietà.

Highlights often feature Vivaldi, Monteverdi, and seasonal repertoire, with events like the New Year’s Concert at La Fenice and Christmas Vespers at St. Mark’s. Book tickets early.

Venice in December: Magical Atmosphere 

In summary, Christmas in Venice brought with it the magical time we were seeking.  From the church bells ringing, to the nativity and manger scenes, to the crisp but not too cold Venice weather, visiting Venice during Christmas holidays was a great time visit.

Stay tuned for the continuation of our Christmas in Italy itinerary. Our the trip included Verona. Afterward we continued to Padua, then Bolzano where we spent Christmas Eve and Christmas Day in the festive town set amid the Dolomites.  We then continued to Bologna, Florence, and Rome.